Jerusalem + ALOT of pictures (beware!)

Hi Friends!  Checking in from Israel to share some pictures from our trip to Jerusalem!  All the Jerusalem photos can be seen by viewing the slideshow here

Overlooking the Wailing Wall and Dome of the Rock

We decided to kick off the Israel Holiday season with a trip to the Holy Land, only a 45 minute drive from our 'hood- and boy was it incredible.  Full disclaimer: I am not, and really have never been, a religious person.  I enjoy learning about religions, and appreciate them for what they are, but have never felt a "calling" like some people do.  The observations I share are from that point of view.

The Old City, from outside the walls

A map of the Old City of Jerusalem, only entered through 1 of 8 gates

                               
        I enjoy being a neutral observer, especially in a place like Israel where religion, government, and daily life intersect into one.  Religion out here is a way of life, and also part of the major conflicts in parts of the country.  When you travel to a place like Jerusalem, or even Israel as a a whole, it is fascinating that so many different people and religions stake claim to the same parts of land and holy sites. Clashes in Jerusalem are daily life- because each religious group believes they should "own" parts of it, which of course creates anger and frustration among other groups.  Take for example the well know Dome of the Rock, the iconic gold roofed mosque that is center to bitter disputes between Muslim and Jewish faiths.  The Jewish believe this was the place that Abraham offered his son Issac. The Muslim faith believes this was the point that Mohammed ascended to heaven.  To further complicate things, Christians took it during the Crusades and believed it to be the Temple of King Solomon, before it was returned to Islamic hands.  As you can imagine, this is one of many examples where multiple religions stake claim to the same holy sites.

Another view of the Western Wall and Dome of the Rock

There are all sorts of US travel warnings regarding Jerusalem, especially regarding the Old City.  I was well aware of all of this, but have also learned one important thing since moving here: take it with a grain of salt.  We went, we were amazed at the city, and only once felt a little uneasy. (More on that in a bit, its probably not what you think.)

We started our time in Jerusalem by entering through the Jaffa Gate, which gives you access to the Christian, Muslim, and Armenian quarters.  We walked through the Christian Quarter and then took back alley ways to arrive in the Muslim quarter.  People were friendly, happy, and in the shops they were all competing for your business.  It wasn't until we took some side roads in this quarter that I felt a bit uneasy (as I alluded to above)- but it wasn't because of adults staring us down or yelling.  There were no threats of personal safety.  It was the children.  Which was shocking and is almost hard for me to say- but the children made me most nervous.  They were aggressive- with each other and passerbyers. They stared at you as though they have been told you are an enemy. They followed us, and knew no physical boundaries.  One child wouldn't stop trying to force a ribbon on my wrist- touching me and in my face.  It wasn't violent, but it was uncomfortable.   He was trying to sell me a "bracelet" and the more I refused, the more he tried.  And the more angry he became. He was saying and shouting things in arabic- so Lee gave him 10 shekels so he would leave us alone, but he wanted more.  The children in this quarter, and this situation, was the only time I felt nervous in this amazing city.  You can't help but wonder what they have been told, taught, and what is expected of them.  It has had me thinking since we were there.  Is it culture? Is it religion? Is it both? Or none? There is no telling.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Entrance

After stopping for some shopping, we continued to the Church of Holy Sepulchre.  I was so naive- I had no idea the magnitude of the church I was about to enter, nor did I completely understand the vast importance.  Even without knowing all of that, when I entered the gates, I felt an undeniable energy. It was unlike anything I have felt- overwhelming emotion, gratitude, appreciation, and peace-which I didn't expect. Everywhere you looked there were people sobbing and praying, kneeling down and whispering prayers.  It is here that many religions mark the crucifixion and burial of Jesus.  Below are some pictures:

The inside, when you first enter

Above are pictures of the stone slab, said to be where Jesus was prepared for burial

Mosaic of the moments after Jesus is taken down and put into his tomb

Inside is the tomb of Jesus- the outside is being renovated

After this, we headed to the Western Wall, AKA the Wailing Wall, AKA the Kotel.  One of 4 walls that Herod the Great built, the wall has layers of historical importance.  Currently, it is dubbed the wailing wall (a name stemming from the middle ages) because they were lamenting the destruction of Herod's temple that was burned by the Romans. More recently, the wall was used to separate the jewish people (until 1967) but when the people were reunited and the division ended, the wall became a symbol of glory.  Now, many will worship at it- reading prayer that some times sounds like a "wail" and  rocking back and forth. Others leave prayers or notes in the rock walls. And some just observe, sitting in the chairs.   We knew this was a holy place, shoulders had to be covered, skin could not be shown, and women and men are separated.  Men worship at one part of the wall, and women go to another.  As Ledoux and I walked towards the wall, a woman came running towards me throwing scarfs at me- apparently too much of my chest was showing.  I had a jacket on, long sleeves, but a few inches beneath my neck were visible. I honestly thought I was good, but apparently not.  Note to self: when they say no skin, they literally mean wear a turtle neck.  Modesty has never been my jam anyway.  

Lots of security in this area

Finally, I leave you with a few other pics of the Old City, and hope that you can someday come visit.  Religious or not, it is incredible.  We already have plans to go back again- as one day is not enough time to properly see everything...it is an unbelievable city.  Truly a bucket list destination.